Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children do not want to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
